Книги. Художественная литература. Учебники и пособия.

Reinhold Messner

Language Notes Text: English (translation) Original Language: German

Andy Tyson, Molly Loomis

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Anatoli Boukreev

Born in Mayak, Russia, in 1958, Boukreev became one of the world's greatest mountain climbers. But while his accomplishments included 21 ascents of 11 of the world's 14 highest mountains, Boukreev became known to the general public only after his work as a guide on a disastrous Mt. Everest climb was described in less than glowing terms in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. Boukreev's coauthored bestselling account of the tragedy, The Climb, was an attempt to set the record straight. This new posthumous collection is a series of narratives Boukreev wrote between 1987 and his death climbing Annapurna in 1997; it stands as an excellent addition to The Climb and as one of the most revealing and tough-minded descriptions of the life of a mountain climber. Three themes dominate the essays: the spiritual beauty and power of the mountains, the increasing commercialization of mountain climbing and the necessity for rigorous training by people (pros and newcomers alike) who want to climb the big...

Roberto Mantovani, Kurt Diemberger

The mighty, inaccessible peaks of Mt. Everest have always posed an irresistible challenge to those motivated to test their mettle against the harsh conditions. Packed with spectacular archival and specially commissioned photographs, this book examines the history of Everest mountaineering through thrilling journey reports. The authors describe in detail the planning required for such a monumental climb and the technical means used in the Everest climbing adventures of modern mountaineering. The narrative recounts the various chapters in the mountaineering history of Everest, from the first reconnaissance in 1921 to the first victorious climb and the accomplishments-and failures-of recent decades. We meet the ambitious adventurers, revel in their triumphs, and experience the tragedies as well. Throughout the book the lively text and vivid photographs transport readers on a journey they will never forget.

Mark F. Twight

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David Breashears

Possibly the most interesting aspect of this book is how improbable it seems that Breashears (Mountain Without Mercy) ever lived to write it. An accomplished alpinist, Breashears not only recounts his numerous, dicey ascents of the planets peaks but also explores his motivation for doing so. Though he is an experienced cinematographer whose past employers range from PBS to Hollywood, Breashears is most widely known as the director of the IMAX film Everest. While filming the movie, Breashears and his crew were fortunate to avoid the unforgiving storm at the mountains summit that led to the death of eight people and was chronicled in Jon Krakauers Into Thin Air. Breashears uses that tragic season on Everest as a frame for a personal memoir. The focus is on how he stepped out of the shadow of his violent military father and discovered his passions for climbing and filmmaking. Some of his psychology is simplistic, but there is no doubt that Breashears is as serious about understanding his...

Arno Ilgner

Mental training is scarcely covered in the climbing literature, yet it is as important to performance as strength, flexibility, and technique. In his unique approach to mental training, Arno Ilgner draws essential elements from the rich 'warrior' literature, as well as from sports psychology, and combines these with his extensive climbing experience to create The Rock Warrior`s Way. Here is a comprehensive program for learning how to focus your mental resources during a challenging climb. It includes step-by-step guidance on motivation analysis, information gathering, risk assessment, mental focus, and deliberate transition into action. Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively, and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force--our love of climbing. We can then create the kind of...

Joe Simpson

On the heels of a swirl of controversy surrounding mountaineering, Joe Simpson wonders if the essence of the sport has been completely lost. From a gripping introduction detailing one climber's dying moments, witnessed by other climbers who offered no help, Simpson moves on to question the May 10, 1996, events on Everest, offering an objective, well-researched, and insightful analysis. Weaving the thread of the larger question through discussions of other issues, he also examines guided climbing, the media spin on climbing accidents, and incidents involving poor treatment of Sherpas. He takes as many risks in his writing as he does in climbing, and Simpson's latest work is certain to challenge readers and inspire debate.

Andrew Selters, Andy Selters

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Bruce Tremper

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